Edit PDFs
November 5, 2009 at 1:53 pm | In Software | Leave a CommentIf you don’t have access to the original file and need to edit a PDF, you typically need the full version of Adobe Acrobat or similar. If you just need to edit a little text occasionally, this can be an expensive solution.
However, if you use Open Office or Sun Office, there is a free extension that might help. It opens the PDF in Draw and lets you make minor changes.
Note that this is a basic tool and will not handle things like forms, tables, or the reflow of paragraphs. But it can handle fixing small text issues you may be tasked with. It will handle images and password protected PDFs (if you have the password).
A useful tool in the toolbox.
David
Naming Big Numbers
October 6, 2009 at 3:08 pm | In Computers, History, Humor, Science | Leave a CommentReally large numbers are hard to get our head around. If you think about it, you can probably visualize a room with a few hundred people in it. Or remember a scene with a few thousand people. But can you visualize a million? What about a sextillion?
If we talk in straight “powers of 10″ as a standard order of magnitude, we can visualize the exponential scale more easily, as this presentation illustrates.
However, the way we name our numbers does not go up in powers of 10. And what those names mean depend on where you live and what you do. Before I explain, I’ll outline the naming convention.
We have tens, hundreds, thousands and millions (French for big thousand).
After that, each iteration adds a (French) prefix: Billion (bi, 2), Trillion, Quadrillion, Quintillion, Sextilion, Septilion, Octillion, Nonillion, and then Decillion.
From there, the pattern repeats: Undecillion, Duodecillian, Tredecillion, and so on to Vigintillion. The next series comes to Centillion. But note the variations in the prefix over the first series.
One problem is in what numbers those names represent. Like the metric system, Europe and Spanish speaking countries use a logical progression. Billion means 2 or double million, so a billion is not a 1,000 million but a million million. They call a 1,000 million a Milliard. The effect is to name each round of 6 additional numbers with the next million name. This is called the Long Scale.
The American and scientific community use the names in a progression for each thousand: i.e.: each additional 3 place settings get the next name, called the Short Scale.
Thus a Trillion in the US is a Billion in Europe. They get progressively further apart until by the European Decillion, the US has raced up to Novemdecillion.
Here’s a simple chart comparing the progression by name.
This section of Wikipedia breaks it down even further.
This site lists all the derivations. Aside from some toungue twisters, there’s a few amusing ones like seducentillion.
I find the European system not only more logical but easier to visualize or intuit. But even there, the naming conventions are not entirely consistent. And the habit of US naming is deeply embedded in our culture.
But the bigger issue is that there is not a relationship between the name and the exponential expression that’s used in math. Tredecillion will tell you how many 0’s (depending on the naming convention you use) but not what power it is, unless you’ve memorized it or use a formulae to convert. It’s like going from Imperial to Metric even though it’s supposed to be representing the same scale.
And of course, because the names can mean very different things, they fail to communicate consistently. Scientists thus stay with numbers as they easily relate to themselves unlike the naming conventions. They simply read the notation, as in “ten to the thirty-third“. As a result, even names like Quintillion are rarely used in practice. One of the reasons you’re not familiar with names over a trillion.
Wikipedia mentions a formula that can used to calculate the power in short scale from the name. The number represented, +1, x 3. For example Nonillion = 9+1 = 10 * 3 = 30. Nonillion = 10^30th. You can reverse the formula to get back but would have to remember the correct name for 9. Or you can us a tool like this at Mathcats. This will handle other numerals midway to produce the other names in series just as you might write a cheque for Five Thousand Three Hundred and Thirty Five. If you insert a bunch of random numbers, you get a very long name with all of the series represented.
Zillion
Another name you hear occasionally, Zillion simply means any really large number. More than can be conceived. While we could call this an algebraic variable, it’s really just slang, like Humongous.
Googol
No, not the search engine. The name a 9-year-old came up with for 10^100th. More 0’s than can fit across this page. He also suggested Googolplex which is 1 followed by as many 0’s as you can write until you get tired. It was then defined as 10^googol or 10^10^100. This isn’t just 10x more but 10 scales larger, exponentially. Very large but still finite. And would be very hard indeed to write out.
Gesundheit
or Skewe’s Number: 10^10^10^34 was considered the upper bound in a mathematical proof. But much larger numbers have since been used.
SI Prefixes
Another naming convention from the French language, SI is also known as the metric prefix. It’s designed to reduce the number of zero’s like scientific notation but uses symbols for Latin prefixes – kilo (k), Mega (M), Giga (G), Tera (T), Peta(P), Exa (E), Zetta (Z), and Yotta (Y). There is a similar scale into the very small: centi, milli, micro, nano, pico, femto, etc.
Think of it as extended Metric, although some prefixes are used with non-Metric notations as well. We see this in weight, distance, computer sizes, electricity and so on. They’re not supposed to be used with time or angles, although astronomers do.
This is where computer MB (million) and GB (billion) hard drives get their naming from. You’ll know your computer has lots of storage when it has Yottabyte drives. The Short Scale equivalent is Septillion bytes, with 8 sets of 000.
Computer naming introduces 2 errors to the standard though:
1) Technically, you’re supposed to write the Kilo symbol with a small k, as in kB, not KB. K is supposed to mean Kelvin.
2)A “kilobyte” is supposed to be 1,000 bytes but it’s often actually 1024 bytes, an exponential value of 2. 2 originates from the on and off states of computer data. As hard drive sizes and network transmission rates have climbed, the discrepancy has gotten larger and larger.
Curiously, hard drive makers are actually underselling the size of the drive when they say it’s 1 TB (trillion). They’re talking less about data space and more about how it will display in a computer. (see below) And some gear does the reverse, implying larger than it is. 11 years ago, the IEC adopted an “i” to denote the powers of 2 used in computers. Thus 1,000 bytes = 1 kB and 1,024 bytes is 1 KiB. I’ve not actually seen this in use yet, but if drive makers realize they can use this to mean more, it may catch on. Would also help a lot if the OS makers supported this though.
Windows, for example, displays a drives space in bytes and GB, dividing the bytes by 1024 to get GB and thus yielding a curiously smaller number. For example, 25.3 billion bytes becomes 23.6GB, a difference of 1.7 billion! It should actually display as 23.6 GiB or 25.3 GB.
Above k, the symbols are all upper case. Seems it would be more consistent if they used all caps for the ascending scale, however, the scale historically starts with Kilo, even though it’s not in the middle at 1.
Unlike the scales above, the SI series is not to be used in combination, as in gigakilo, meaning it doesn’t use positioning and new names will have to be added to go above Yotta. Some variations are also seen like micro for micrometer and angstrom for nanometer.
Some suggest adapting the SI prefixes to remove the international vagueness of what billion and trillion mean. But it’s not large or flexible enough a scale. And in the same way as above, the scale names don’t have a relationship with the numeric values.
-yllion
This is one persons proposal to standardize naming but it also changes the notation, using commas after every 4 numbers. Rather than being a simple naming standardization it’s another system and so unlikely to be adopted. The page also has links to many other traditional number systems.
Origins
And finally, a touch of history. Our numeric system came to Europe from the Arabs who in turn got it from invading Persia. Persia derived theirs from India. Here you can see how some of the Sanskrit names evolved through Arabia and into Greek and Latin. This includes the ideas of zero and place values. Position allows expression of all numbers with just 10 symbols. The discussion above was just on how to name the results.
David
Motorized Unicycle
October 3, 2009 at 3:37 pm | In Strange, Technology, Transportation | Leave a CommentHmm – a little hard to describe this one. Honda is demonstrating a new experimental product. A powered unicycle. Kind of like a unicycle Segway, but without the handle.
It uses the balance technology developed with the ASIMO bipedal robot and a unique omnidirectional wheel that allows one to move forward – or sideways or diagonally. The wheel is composed of numerous small diameter motorized wheels that can roll sideways or connect inline to form one large diameter forward wheel.
It’s under 10kg, runs on a Li ion battery for one hours use. Like a unicycle, it sits between your legs.
You move just by shifting your weight.
Better than talk, take a look at the demo video. Watch her lean.
More details:
http://world.honda.com/news/2009/c090924New-Personal-Mobility-Device/
Faster Saving and Opening
October 2, 2009 at 10:22 pm | In Computers, Software | Leave a CommentI’ve spoken before about Windows Documents. How to set up your own Digital File Cabinet, and so forth. With XP, they introduced a great idea, with a default location for saving your files in My Documents.
Unfortunately, the implementation sucked. Music and Pictures were inside Documents and everyone and their dog install various folders there. Mine collected several dozen sometimes meaningless folders from who knows where. The folder path is long and includes spaces, causing grief for tape and CD backup systems. (max. 256 character path means file names get cropped or files left out – 20% are taken just to get into the real My Documents location) Adding your own folders in just adds to the mess and reduces the file name lengths you can use. In short, it was a hard to manage dumping ground. You really don’t want your File cabinet to be randomly loaded with junk.
I created a separate folder system that’s served me well. The only downside is when a program goes to save, I sometimes have to navigate up and out, into the right drive and then folders to save. Lots of extra steps.
XP did include a way to move My Documents to another drive so you could keep all the settings together with your other data though. And Outlook and Outlook Express allow you to change the location of their email data similarly. Much easier to back up when your data is separate from programs and not buried somewhere obscure.
Vista does improve on this, separating out the folders and removing the “My ” nonsense.
Save Shortcuts
Recently, I finally thought of a faster way to get to the folders I actually want to save stuff in. Shortcuts.
In My Documents, right click an open space and select New, Shortcut. Click Browse and navigate to your commonly used Save locations (Documents, Music, Websites, Downloads, etc.), select the folder and click OK. Click Next. The folder name will become the shortcut name. I’d add an Underscore “_” in front of it, like “_Music” – this will cause it to sort to the top of the other stuff so you’ll see it first. Click Finish.
Now, next time you click Save and find yourself in My Documents, just double-click the shortcut to get you where you WANT to save it.
Open
This trick can also be used for files you open all the time that are not stored in My Documents. File, Open may bring you to My Documents as well – just create a shortcut to the file you like (as above) and double-click it in My Documents. It will open without being there.
SendTo
Another similar feature built in to XP is the SendTo. You can right-click on a file, select Sent To, then select a choice from the menu. If you have a specific place you copy files to regularly, like an archive or shared folder, you can add a shortcut to the favoured location.
On the C: drive, in Documents and Settings, you’ll find your SendTo folder under your /username. Create shortcuts here to the folders you use, as described above.
If there are shortcuts that programs have installed that you don’t want, you can delete them. Some will be in /All Users but you may have to unhide it. Just be careful about deleting ones that are not shortcuts (with the arrow) – they’re put there by the OS and would be hard to replace.
Custom Toolbar
And finally, if you have programs, folders, or files you use all the time, you can create a “quick launch” bar for them. Create a folder somewhere handy and put the shortcuts in it. Then right click on the Windows Taskbar (at the bottom), select Toolbars, New. Browse to the folder and click OK. Now you have a popup menu on the Taskbar of all your choices. One click to launch. Or you can click and drag (if the taskbar is unlocked) the menu to the top or either side of your screen. A custom fixed menu. Right-click the new toolbar to configure – show text or not, icon size, auto-hide, and so on. I use a couple of these. If you don’t like it, right-click and select close.
(I don’t think this works in Vista)
With a few tricks like that, you can get things done faster. And that’s the whole point.
David
Loosing FAT for NTFS
October 2, 2009 at 8:23 pm | In Backup, Computers, Software | Leave a CommentMost people with Windows XP or above nowadays have an NTFS file system. The data on their hard drives is stored with this structure. (Macs, Linux, etc. use varieties of UFS, descended from Unix) However, some people who have had XP for awhile began with FAT32 for compatibility with older computers, utilities, and so forth. NTFS is recommended for hard drives over 400 MB, which is most of them now. But not for Flash drives. And some do recommend FAT32 for other solid state drives.
It’s now old news to bring up a FAT32 to NTFS migration but I ran into a technique recently that can make it much more effective. But first, lets review why.
Advantages:
NTFS has a number of advantages
- reliability – the file system is more robust and includes hotfixing and recovery.
- It will handle much larger files than the 4GB limit of FAT32, like those new HD movies
- Like Linux, naming is case sensitive, so FILE.txt and file.txt are different files. It also time stamps last accessed time. (POSIX)
- cluster size – it uses 4K rather than 16 or 24K for a small file (each 1K file takes a cluster, wasting disk space)
The last one is the key issue in a conversion. To get the most out of NTFS, you want those small clusters. But if you’re converting from FAT, it may not be so easy. Ideally, you can move the data to another drive, reformat the partition to NTFS, then move the data back again.
Data Drives:
The procedure I use for Data drives:
- clean out the junk
- defrag* if it’s been awhile. Moving the files to NTFS does some defragging but this will make the process faster if there’s a lot of fragmented data.
- copy the files off the partition (backup)
- reformat the partition/drive to NTFS 4K
- move the files back
- recheck in Defrag to polish
- turn off indexing – (right click the drive, Properties, uncheck Indexing). More on indexing below.
Note that this is a detailed process – some of the steps can take awhile. It depends on much much stuff and how tidy it is.
*For a free Defrag tool, I’d suggest MyDefrag (formerly jkDefrag). It uses the Windows API but is faster and much more through. If you really want to organize your data, try it’s Monthly Optimize – but plan to run it overnight.
If you’ve been meaning to adjust the partition sizes, format time is a good time to do it. The XP Disc Manager is primitive compared to a good partition tool. They let you change sizes and move without data loss. Some free ones are better but a good tool allows you to boot from a CD and do it outside the OS. For that I’d suggest Acronis PartitionExpert, now called DiscDirector or BootIT NG. The second is cheaper but geekier. (The long recommended PartionMagic is not what it once was)
If you don’t already do it, it can make your life a lot easier to separate your data from your programs. Programs need occasional Imaging. Data needs regular backup. Much faster if you don’t have to go fishing. You can move My Documents, email and more to the Data drive for easy backup.
Also, it’s worth mentioning that older computers and Macs can’t fully share an NTFS system. You may want to keep one small partition on FAT32 for sharing.
If you make enough of a change to a hard drive, you may need to reboot Windows after it’s “found new hardware” post change.
Boot Drive:
Your Boot or system drive has a different issue. You can’t just copy all the files – some don’t copy. My usual recommendation to use an Imaging tool that mirrors the drive is not suitable in this case as we’re changing file systems. Many Backup programs leave out “in use” files, making a recovery useless. While you can use a CD based backup that can lock C and get it all from outside of Windows, there’s an easier way.
Here, Alex Nichol suggests a feature of BootIT NG to realign the drive clusters so they’ll convert efficiently. (you can also make a bootable CD) Then you can use Microsoft’s built in Convert tool.
In my own case, I discovered that the format tools I’ve been using have already been building small clusters. You mileage may vary – I’d suggest you take the step.
For the Boot system:
- do a standard Image backup. (if you need to recover from this, it will be back to FAT32)
- align for NTFS per aumha.org (above)
- defrag
- use Convert
- turn off Indexing (drive properties)
- check Defrag to polish
- Do a new Image backup from NTFS
You could do something similar for the data drives, but I found the above faster. However if you have a very full data drive with nowhere to move it, use the boot system process. It worked nicely for my full Backup system.
Pagefile - it’s also worth mentioning the pagefile on a boot drive. It’s quite large and can be very fragmented. (mine was in over 800 parts) If you move the pagefile to another drive during the defrag, you can put it back in open space. (My Computer, Properties, Advanced tab, Performance – Settings, Advanced tab, Virtual Memory – Change) You can also try PageDefrag, a free tool designed for the job.
Note – old ideas about putting the pagefile on another drive or splitting it are no longer valid. It should be on the first partition of the fastest drive (usually the boot drive) and you can let Windows manage the size.
Indexing
The Windows Indexing Service tends to bog computers and fight with anti-virus, etc. When you do an NTFS conversion, Indexing is turned on. Turning off indexing on each drive is just the first step. (Thanks Fred Langa)
- Start, Run, ciadv.msc
- right click on the service and stop it if necessary.
- right click and delete the catalogue(s)
- close
- Start, Run, Services.msc
- Right click on Indexing Services, Properties, set it to Disabled.
- close
If you prefer to keep the Indexing service on, be sure to only be indexing drives you expect to search – the Data ones. You can search on line for ways to use it better and overcome problems.
Happy Computing.
David
TCP Connection Limits
October 1, 2009 at 3:10 pm | In Computers, Internet, Security, Software | Leave a CommentDuring some recent system maintenance, I noticed regular 4226 errors in Event Viewer, System. (right click My Computer and select Manage)
It states: “TCP/IP has reached the security limit imposed on the number of concurrent TCP connect attempts.” It turns out that SP2 of Windows XP introduced a new limit in an apparent effort to improve security. (Apparently, they don’t do this in Windows 7)
The only problem is, it also reduces some of the benefit of your Internet connection speed you’re paying for, especially for large files and a download manager or P2P program.
If you search Microsoft.com for error 4226, you get instructions for how to terminate programs overusing connections or failing to connect.
The “malware” doing this on my computer was Firefox and my AV software, things I expect to connect. And things being delayed in their ability to connect.
As this site observes, it’s a rather meaningless gesture as even the 10 connection limit can infect thousands of systems in a minute.
Fixing the issue is not something simple like changing a form setting or even a registry entry. It requires changing a hex value the above link mentions. Unless you have a hex editor and know what you’re doing, not a good idea.
I ran into a couple of tools that will quickly do the fix for XP SP3. I used TCPIP Patcher. It’s for for SP2 & 3, it backs up the old sys file and allows you to undo the change.
The SP2 setting is 10, down from what I understand was 50. Some suggest kicking it up to 50 is fine. This tool suggests 256+ and another site suggests 5-600. Unless you have a seriously large pipeline and do a lot of downloading, you’ll probably find something more modest fine. It’s easy to adjust.
Check out SpeedGuides other tweaks for speeding your connection. Of note is the downloads page, offering you a graphical interface to work with the many obscure settings that underlie TCP/IP.
Happy Surfing!
David
The Ghosts of Computing Past – Part 2
October 1, 2009 at 2:38 pm | In Backup, Computers, Hardware | 2 CommentsHardware
Sometimes the weirder problems are not software at all but rather device problems or conflicts. While you don’t have to worry about IRQ settings and such like the old days, the device drivers sometimes have to be updated to work with the evolving computer. Drivers are basically bits of software that communicate between the operating system and the hardware.
To see if you have hardware issues, right click on My Computer and select Manage. In there, you’ll find a bunch of tools. First we’ll look at Device Manager.
Devices with problems will show with a yellow or red mark. Or if the computer doesn’t have drivers for the device, it will show as a yellow question mark.
If you know the device is long gone, right click and select uninstall.
To fix the item, double click to open it. You can see the possible issue, driver version and other details there. If it’s telling you there’s a driver issue, click the Driver tab and click Update Driver.
You may first want to do a web search for the drivers online. Best to stick with the makers web site first. Typically, it’s under Support, Downloads, model number. You can compare driver versions with what’s installed although developers have a bad habit of using several numbering systems. You may also find that the makers drivers will be a big improvement over the generic Microsoft drivers that may be in use.
Another place to check for issues is the Event Viewer, found above Device Manager in the Management console. Particularly, you want to look at System. Red flags indicate a problem, yellow a warning.
The error 4226 I mention in TCP Connection Limits is one example of a yellow. A security measure was reducing some Internet performance.
If you’ve changed hardware over the years, you’re bound to have some junk collecting. I used to have a video card with a TV tuner, for example. Even though the hardware is long gone and the software uninstalled, it left vestiges that caused occasional video playback issues. It acted like I was missing a codec (a compression-decompression routine used to shrink audio and video file sizes like MP3) but codec tools didn’t help.
Turned out to be the vapours of hardware past. The old services were being called but “failed to run” as the device was not present. More so, neither was the service. As it was time to upgrade the video drivers, it was time to clean the space and tackle the issue.
As with other areas of Windows, Device Manager does not natively show you everything. So if you’re trying to fix something you can’t see…
This site tells you how to turn on the visibility of hidden devices. A simple command line setting change, then you can show the hidden items in Device Manager from the View menu. (each time you run it)
What you’ll see is stuff you shouldn’t mess with, like chipset devices with numbers, plus hardware you have at some distant time plugged in. The ghosted entries are not currently “installed”. You’ll recognize some things you use occasionally, like a USB device. But also lots of real ghosts. If you no longer have the hardware, you can right-click and uninstall it. I found quite a few ghosts this way, especially for the old video card. Each software update seems to have added another version. I also found 5 hidden devices with problems, none of which were installed. 4 of them were now causing System Errors – with no hardware and software on board.
After you finish uninstalling the old devices, reboot the system and recheck that the System errors have ended.
If not it means your Registry is still calling them. Back up your Registry either from the File menu of RegEdit (export) or by creating a System Restore Point. (Accessories, System Tools, System Restore)
Then you can use a registry tool to try and find the entries that are still calling the long gone hardware. Most registry cleaners search for all issues but don’t seek missing hardware. The free RegSeeker has a Find Tool you can use to search by product or maker name. It also has a backup tool and a checkbox to backup changes before deletion. Or you can just use Find in RegEdit. (from the Run command)
Just don’t get too aggressive or you may have to reinstall some stuff. Some software is simply not coded to standards, thus appearing to be an error. But if the entries refer to old or departed stuff, you can clean.
This combination of clearing hidden devices and old registry calls did the trick. No more system errors.
David
For software cleanup, see Part 1
The Ghosts of Computing Past – Part 1
October 1, 2009 at 2:22 pm | In Backup, Computers, Security, Software | 2 CommentsIf you’ve been using your computer for any period of time, you’ll find it tends to collect stuff, just like your home. And just like your home, you have to take out the trash and recycling, do some cleanup, and every so often, do a larger purge.
The challenge with computers is that unless you store everything on your desktop, the load is hidden away. Over time, it will begin to slow your computer down and create problems.
Software
In the latest Windows Secrets newsletter, Scott Spanbauer reviews the steps for preparing a computer for Windows 7. Largely, this is preflighting and some more serious maintenance. I add a few other bits for a good seasonal cleaning. Work through the list step by step.
1- Update - get your software current. This gets you bug and security fixes. Secunia makes a couple of great free tools – you can use the basic Online or download the more advanced PSI. They’re reviewed here.
Don’t be surprised if you have some programs that are creating security issues for you, including ones you’d forgotten about.
2- Uninstall unused programs. You may have lots of drive space, but many add junk to the startup, filling memory and slowing your computer. Tools like the mentioned Revo Uninstaller can help with problems or hidden things.
3- Manage what’s starting with your computer. Do you really need all that stuff running all the time? This will help unbog the system and empty some of the taskbar. Use a Startup Manger like these or if you’re a little geekier, try Autoruns.
4- Run Disk Cleanup in Accessories, System Tools. This gets not just your trash, but a variety of other Temporary files that may have been left behind.
5- Run Scandisk. This is a little more hidden. In My Computer, right click a drive and select Properties. On the Tools tab, under Error Checking, click Check Now. Select the first checkbox to fix errors, the other for a more through scan. It may want you to run on a reboot.
6- Run your AntiVirus and Antispam tools to ensure nothing snuck in.
7- Defrag the drive (also System Tools). This can take a little time if you’ve not done it for awhile. Some reboot into Safe Mode and run it there, unencumbered and faster. You could also choose a free tool like MyDefrag, reviewed here.
8- Set up a backup routine. Without a backup, you could become more virtual than you planned. I have suggestions here.
If you’ve never learned to file digitally, take a look at The Digital Filing Cabinet.
Next we explore Hardware ghosts – Part 2
David
[NOTE - see comment on Boot log and startup below]
Blog as Web Site
September 14, 2009 at 10:40 pm | In Blogs, Internet, Online services, Software, Web Apps, Web Design | Leave a CommentOne of the more interesting trends in web sites is the shift towards blog-based sites. Blogs were started more as a journaling tool but their sophistication has gradually developed into a complete platform for easy small web site management.
This blog, for example, is mostly blog oriented with a variety of posts. But it includes the stub of a formerly large site under the ‘Web Ref‘ tab. A variety of other static pages could easily be added. One of those could be set as the “Home” page, turning the blog into a typical web site. A blog without a blog.
Blogs are pre-coded so are much easier to set up and maintain. It’s actually cheaper to use a blog like this than build and host your own site. You can change templates and tune and tweak it on the fly.
I’ve come to recommend a blog platform for most people looking for a small site that is word based. A big reason for this is ease of use. Many people pay to get a web site up then leave it languishing, unchanged. A regular site requires ongoing maintenance. Why not make it something you can do yourself? With WordPress, your time is spent on content rather than code.
Also, visibility. If you set up a new web site on the web today, congratulations. You’ve just joined the other 100 million web sites and trillion web addresses out there. Will you be seen in that crowd? The search engines pay more attention to blogs as they’re expected to update more often. You’re also recognized on other blogs and linked back to yours.
My favorite platform is WordPress. WordPress is open source and is used by organizations that include the United Nations, Ford, Sony, MTV, and many more. Yet with good content, even a one person show can draw big traffic. The current top rated WordPress blog is one man’s Typography resource.
WordPress comes in 2 varieties.
WordPress.com is the free hosted blog with yourblogname.wordpress.com, like this one. You can launch a site in just a few minutes. Choose a name, choose a theme and launch. You can later change themes on the fly as well as the sidebar features. On this blog, I added the Welcome section with Feedburner links, adjusted the sequence of the features, turned Categories and Archives into pick lists, and so on. I picked a theme with a custom banner option and put my own in. I also like the tabs for the static pages this theme has.
For a fee, you can add things like your own domain, a more highly customized look, more space, and so on. The blogs at WordPress.com create a kind of sub-section of the Internet as they’re cross-referenced in several ways. That further enhances visibility.
Technically, WordPress can place ads on your free blog but I’ve only ever seen one once. You can pay them not to but I suspect that only arises if you’re getting a lot of traffic.
WordPress.org is the open solution hosted on your own servers. This allows you to take it into far more customized, commercial, and volume territory. Most web site hosts I’ve used allow you to add or build the site from a WordPress blog directly. Little need for server configuration – just activate it in your Control Panel. But you can also roll your own.
The plugins available for customizing your own blog are immense, from a choice of any theme or layout, to adding eCommerce, galleries, feeds, twitter integration, and more. Presently, there are over 6,500 plugins. But you will need to maintain and sometimes debug some of them. If you’ve ever run into a problem on a blog, this was probably the issue.
If you do roll your own server, you will need to take care of server maintenance and the usual security updates as well.
Another nice thing about WordPress is that if you outgrow your free blog, you can export your posts to your own hosted blog.
Some people are big on social networking sites like MySpace and Facebook. If you’re a musician, MySpace has advantages. Personally, I’d stay away from Facebook. Some of the others are pure information collection systems. If you want to communicate with the world, communicate with something that’s open to the world. If you don’t want to communicate things with everyone, don’t put it on the Internet.
If you can figure out how to use webmail, you can start a blog. Tweaking the look may take a little more time to fiddle through, just as browsing the settings for webmail. But the basics are easy and quick to learn.
David
Optical Disc Quality – Recordable DVD’s and CD’s.
September 11, 2009 at 2:23 am | In Backup, Media, Software, Technology | 1 CommentFor awhile I’ve wanted to write a decent article on buying good CD and DVD discs but straightforward info I could refer you to was hard to find. Rare studies were very technical and often out of date. Amazon had one they pulled.
I did a detailed study of this a few years back as we needed archival quality discs and the major supplier, Kodak, had stopped making them. The best were MAM-A Gold Archive with an expected lifetime of over 300 years. In fact, they were the only ones that met the government spec. I got them through a small importer in the US.
But these are pricey for more modest uses. Most of us need something that will last more than a couple of years but we shouldn’t need over 50. Taiyo Yuden is one of the most recommended (and oldest) disc makers and has ones said to last about 70 years, but they’re usually sold rebranded by others.
And therein lies the rub. The store-bought disc brands don’t typically make their own discs. Any given brand with the same packaging can be a top quality disc or junk. Brands are thus a poor gauge. Tricks like gold foil and “made in” may or may not be good clues. Some brands have gold tops but the substrate is actually silver. The only way you can really tell is to read the Media ID of the disc. That tells you who actually made it and it’s type. And that requires opening the package, putting a disc in the computer and checking it with a utility*.
First thing to do is to skip the discount brands. While cheap discs may work, they tend to have a much shorter lifespan before they start to deteriorate. I’ve also had trouble with certain brands in cheap DVD players.
Many of the recommendations you see out there are opinions based on past experience with burning certain specific discs. But is that useful if the discs become coasters in 6 months? Or the brand varies what they put in the case? Verbatim got in trouble for this but has cleaned up it’s act.
Recently I ran into this review of the Top Ranked Blank DVD Media. It explains quality levels, reviews brands, and where to buy. Also what the Media ID means. The data is not entirely consistent across sections but does offer some good information.
VideoHelp’s DVD Media table illustrates further how variable DVD’s are. For example, search the list for TDK and get 70 variations. Verbatim 57, including 5 DataLifePlus branded -R 4.7GB discs. 4 are good, 1 bad. It also illustrates how even the good discs are not supported by everything that’s supposed to support them. You may find it useful to review your Media ID’s here.
Generally speaking, these brands are quite good: Taiyo Yuden, Sony, Mitsui/MAM, most Maxell
These brands vary: Verbatim, HP, Imation and especially Memorex.
The worst brands won’t even burn reliably, making them useless.
I’ve had little issue with Verbatim and Maxell from brand stores like Staples. The Verbatim’s I’m using now are quality MCC from Mitsubishi. The Maxell’s are ProDisc that are almost as good. I’ve had poor experiences with Memorex and TDK. Horrible with a few minor brands.
Looking at the suggested suppliers of the Top Ranked article, we can see it comes down to the quality mindedness of the retailer because the customer has no real way to tell in the store. No “ingredients list”. Especially with DVD’s.
*Tools for checking the Media ID:
In the Nero suite, DiscInfo is good.
An earlier version is available free.
DVD Identifier
They also offer a downloadable ID database
DiscInfoPro
Version 6 is advertised as “free” in some places but it’s actually a 14 day trial. If you install this first, then install an earlier free version like 4, 4 will also come up as Trial. Thus look for version 4.
See the Media ID Quality Guide section or the database above for ID reference .
Search VideoHelp for more
-R vs +R DVD’s
Recordable DVD’s introduced 2 competing standards, DVD-R and DVD+R. Basically, they are 2 ways of storing data on the disc.
+R is a few years newer and technically superior. If you are using the discs only on a computer such as for data backup, +R is slightly superior. More so for archival purposes.
This article goes into great detail on why he thinks Taiyo Yuden DVD+R discs are best for long term archive. (they don’t meet all gov’t archival specs though)
If you plan to use the discs for videos playable in DVD players, you want to use DVD-R. While newer DVD players often support both, older ones only support -R and some of the newer ones don’t support +R consistently. It may work on your player but not on the friends you send it to for example. Good branded DVD-R are thus best for Video DVD’s. They are also often slightly cheaper.
Note that for DVD player playback, you also have to encode the video in MPEG2 or DivX (if the player supports it). Burning software that records to DVD or Blu-Ray doesn’t mean it will play in a DVD Player, just that it will burn. Most players won’t play data discs with various video files on them. They require a specific file format and structure. Thus, you want to create a Video DVD, not just burn to DVD.
Suggested free software for burning Video DVD’s.
Nero 9 Free for burning and copying. This does not include Video DVD creation but may be useful for copying, etc. Some people love Nero, others consider it bloated. The full suite has quite a wide range of tools including Video DVD, menu creation, etc. I usually use Pinnacle for DVD building. Note that DiscInfo is available in the free version as an optional update from the Control Center.
CD Media
CD media quality is very similar to the DVD suggestions above. Here is a good review of CD-R quality and makers.
Further discussion on recordable CD’s, though more subjective. The article includes links to CD Identifier utilities, though the above should handle both. (DVDIdentifier does not mention support for CD’s. The others do.)
BTW, if you use stick-on disc labels, these are known to dramatically reduce the lifespan of discs. (the glue) I’d recommend you copy any such discs you want to retain to newer media.
David
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